Today I am talking with Nastya — a business analyst whose journey over the last three years has taken her from Ukraine through three European countries. We are on a video call: I am in London, and Nastya is in Santander, in northern Spain, where she and her husband moved two months ago. But today, our conversation begins with memories of other countries: Poland and Bulgaria.
In this interview we discuss the experience of unplanned emigration, the difficult search for housing, various barriers, and taxes. We touch on the topic of "life on pause," which is familiar to many Ukrainians, but also talk about small joys and the gradual sense of stability that appears even where you found yourself not by your own plan.
Life in Krakow
Housing search difficulties
How did it all start - and why Poland?
Nastya: At first, it was hard for my husband and me to even imagine where to go. We wanted to choose something as understandable, close, and "less scary" as possible. The choice fell on Poland, specifically Krakow, because we had friends there who had also been forced to leave a bit earlier. It gave us a sense that we weren't completely alone. But after arriving, it became clear that everything was much more complicated.
What difficulties did you face in Krakow?
Nastya: Finding housing was by far the hardest part. We searched online and made countless calls, but we quickly realized how many obstacles we were up against. First, there was the language barrier: since we didn't know Polish and many landlords didn't speak English, any options where we couldn't communicate clearly were ruled out immediately. Second, the deposits were huge — sometimes they asked for six months' rent upfront. Third, there was a clear prejudice toward Ukrainians. People would say directly, "We don't rent to Ukrainians." It was incredibly demotivating.
Me: That sounds familiar. In London, there is also high competition in the rental market, where dozens of people compete for one apartment.
Nastya: Exactly. In Krakow, there would be 20 people competition for one viewing and even offering a higher price for the rent. In the end, we only looked at two apartments and took one of them immediately because there was no choice. This option was for $500, while similar central options cost from $800.
Tip: If you plan to stay in Poland for a long time — learning the Polish language is critically important. Without it, closing basic everyday needs is much harder.
The apartment we rented was very small — just a kitchen-living room and a bathroom. There was an upper level under the roof with a sloped ceiling that you could reach by stairs, but it had no ventilation. It became impossibly hot in the summer as the roof heated up, so we could only use it for storage. While the drive to the center was only 10-15 minutes by car, it took about 40 minutes by public transport. To be honest, it wasn't a comfortable place to live, but at the time we took whatever we could get. We stayed there for four months, but we rarely wanted to be inside; we were constantly traveling to neighboring countries just for a change of scenery.
Unexpected turn: the decision to go to Bulgaria
How come you decided to move to Bulgaria?
Nastya: It was unexpected. I was working remotely; before leaving Ukraine, I had agreed on this with the company and everyone was okay with it. But two weeks later, my manager said they were registering an office in Europe and that I would have to move. They were opening the office in Plovdiv, and the choice was simple: either move to Bulgaria or be let go. We decided to move.
Did you consider other options?
Nastya: At that moment — no. Bulgaria seemed like a good option. First, Poland didn't really suit us in terms of climate or "vibe." Second, the company promised to help with the paperwork. In reality, it was all handled under the temporary protection scheme, which in Bulgaria takes literally 10 minutes to set up. But there is a downside — no one knows what happens once the protection period expires.
Was it easy to move?
Nastya: During our four months in Krakow, we hadn't accumulated many things, so the move was very straightforward — we just put everything in the car and left. It felt like a long adventure that we needed. We drove through Poland, Slovakia, Hungary, and Serbia to Bulgaria, covering almost 1500 km. We had planned to stay overnight in Serbia, but while we were driving, my husband said, "Let's do it in one go! The road is so good." In the end, the journey took about 20 hours. We arrived in Plovdiv at five in the morning, absolutely knackered. Since our hotel check-in wasn't until noon, we tried to sleep in the car at a gas station for a couple of hours. But around dawn, the workers started peering through the windows, so we just drove to the hotel. Once we finally checked in, we slept for 12 hours straight.
Life in Bulgaria
Advantages and disadvantages
What were your first impressions?
Nastya: Honestly, my first impression was negative. After Krakow, the city seemed dirtier and less well-maintained. The old Soviet buildings were particularly noticeable — in Krakow, they existed too, but they were restored and cared for. In Bulgaria, they seemed more neglected than in Ukraine. I remember thinking, "Bloody hell, what a shithole." But once we'd recovered from the stress of the road, that changed. Plovdiv is actually quite beautiful, with its mix of modern, Ottoman, and ancient architecture. When everything is in bloom, it feels like a completely different city.
ed. Plovdiv is one of the oldest cities in Europe, included in the UNESCO tentative list. The Ancient Theater built in the 1st century is preserved here and is still used for concerts and theatrical performances.
How did you look for housing this time?
Nastya: It happened surprisingly fast. We contacted a real estate agent on our first day — the company gave us a contact who spoke both Russian and Ukrainian — and we immediately found something we liked. The only catch was that we had to wait a few days because the previous tenants, who were also Ukrainian, were still packing up. Interestingly, we didn't even see the actual unit before deciding; it wasn't convenient to visit while they were moving. Instead, we were shown an identical apartment one floor down with the exact same layout. We liked the layout and agreed to take it the same day. As it turned out, our unit was even better because it had nicer furniture.
What are the advantages and disadvantages of living in Bulgaria?
Nastya: The winters are mild and spring arrives early — by April, you can already walk around in light clothes. The attitude toward Ukrainians is very friendly or neutral; we never felt any prejudice. Also, housing is much more affordable. A great, renovated apartment with a parking space in Plovdiv cost us about $600, which is roughly 30% cheaper than similar places in Krakow.
On the downside — the summer. In Plovdiv, the heat is intense; the asphalt gets so hot that it’s hard to breathe even in the evening. As for the language, English isn't as widely spoken either, especially in smaller towns.
Taxes
What are the taxes in Bulgaria compared to Ukraine?
Nastya: Income tax in Bulgaria is 10%. In Ukraine, it's 18% plus a military tax which is now 5% — in total it comes out much higher. But in Bulgaria, there are also social contributions, which are split between the employer and the employee. In the end, what you get in hand is approximately the same as in Ukraine — about 23% overall tax burden.
Community and lifestyle
How did you spend your free time? Did you manage to integrate into the local environment?
Nastya: At first, everything was new and exciting. It felt like an endless vacation. We walked a lot, explored the country, and discovered new places. Bulgaria doesn't have as many ancient cities as in Central Europe, so we focused more on nature and spent many weekends in the mountains or at the seaside.
Me: And what about new acquaintances?
Nastya: Most of our new connections were through work. Many of my colleagues had also relocated to Plovdiv, so our own community formed naturally. It was interesting — we had worked together for years on different projects but only met in person for the first time abroad. Communication with Bulgarians mostly remained at the "small talk" level. We didn't really form deep connections with the locals; we tended to stick to our circle of Ukrainians. It felt comfortable to build deeper relationships with a few people rather than surface-level ones with many. We also spent time with Russians who had left because they disagreed with the regime — we found it easy to find common ground with them.
Conscious choice and emigration to Spain
Decision to move on — Santander
Why did you decide to move on after two years in Bulgaria?
Nastya: Over time in Bulgaria, things that initially brought joy stopped evoking emotions. At some point, I remember not wanting to go out anywhere at all. There was a depressed feeling, as if there was no energy. Later, I realized what it was connected with — we just didn't see our future there. When the euphoria of a new country and warm travels passes, you are left with reality: you can't build long-term plans, but you can't return home either. This is that same feeling of "life on pause." It's very pressing.
When I moved to a new company and was no longer tied to the Bulgarian office, we started thinking about our next move. We wanted to make a more deliberate choice this time. We began researching countries with Digital Nomad visas, studying the requirements in detail. We brainstormed with ChatGPT and consulted with lawyers in both Spain and Portugal. Initially, Portugal was very tempting because of the 5-year path to citizenship. We were leaning toward it until the laws started changing — there was talk of increasing the requirement to 10 years, as in most other European countries, and the rules for children became more complicated. That uncertainty made us decide not to risk it, so we moved on from the Portugal idea.
Why specifically Santander in the North, and not the sunny South?
Nastya: We were looking for something in the north because we didn't want to live in a hot city. We were in Valencia in the summer — visited friends for a couple of weeks, and it was very hard. As soon as the plane landed, we were on the tarmac, and my husband said, "I'll stay on the plane, I don't want to go out." It's very difficult there, and in the summer months, it's almost impossible to live. You sit in an air-conditioned apartment all the time, and friends and acquaintances say the same. Sun, the sea is very warm, but does it make sense when you sit in an apartment all day and you just don't want to go out? So we looked specifically at the north of Spain. We looked at the map, asked friends where they traveled in Spain, looked at the map again — we wanted a city by the ocean and further north. We looked at Bilbao, although it would be a bit more expensive there — and so we found Santander. We decided that if we don't like it, we'll move to another city, because doing it while already in the country is much easier. But so far, we like everything very much. It's very beautiful here. The ocean is constantly different — sometimes calm, sometimes stormy, sometimes dark, sometimes transparent.
Digital Nomad Visa in Spain
Are you planning to apply for a Digital Nomad visa?
Nastya: Yes, though there are some nuances. Since my husband works for a Ukrainian company, our strategy is to start with temporary protection and then transition to the Digital Nomad visa. He’s currently setting himself up as a Spanish sole trader — an autónomo — and after a few months, we’ll apply for the visa.
Note: The Spanish Digital Nomad Visa is a great path for those who work remotely to legalize and eventually obtain the right to permanent residency.
Prices and daily life
How much more expensive is it to live in Spain compared to Bulgaria?
Nastya: Rent is about 50% higher. In Santander, we pay €1,050 for a large apartment (over 100 sq. m) with parking and storage. It’s more than the $600 we paid in Plovdiv, but cheaper than Valencia. For comparison, our friends in Valencia pay €1,100 for a place without furniture or parking, so they’ve had to buy everything themselves bit by bit.
Was it easy to find housing in Spain?
Nastya: Not really. Landlords are terrified of "okupas" (squatters), as it's very difficult to evict them once they’re in. Because of this, the background checks are incredibly thorough. We were asked to pay for a full year upfront, and we were lucky to have the means to do that. The actual search took about a week.
What about the cost of groceries?
Nastya: Prices are similar to Bulgaria, just slightly higher. In Bulgaria, we used to spend about $50 (roughly €43) for a 5-day grocery haul for the two of us — that’s a standard basket with meat and dairy, nothing fancy like black caviar. Here in Santander, the same haul is about €50. However, the quality is much higher. You can grab things without obsessively checking expiration dates and trust they’re fresh. In Bulgaria, you’d often buy strawberries only to find half of them moldy when you got home. Here, we just grab what we need. We’re big fans of the Mercadona supermarket.
Me: And what do you miss most?
Nastya: Raw beets! (laughs). In Spain, they usually sell them pre-boiled and vacuum-packed. I’ve tried making borscht with them, but it’s just not the same. I have a friend coming from Bulgaria in June who promised to bring me a sack of raw beets.
Do you plan to learn Spanish?
Nastya: Yes, we’re already working on it. We're using the Promova app for now, which has a great basic level. After that, we plan to take either online or local in-person classes, or maybe hire a tutor. I also really enjoy the method of learning through songs.
Advice and a look into the future
What would you advise Ukrainians planning to move to Europe?
Nastya: Honestly assess your resources — not just money, but also emotional strength. Be clear about your expectations. If long-term residency is your goal, research the legal requirements thoroughly and in advance. Finding a recommended, reliable lawyer will save you a massive amount of stress.
Where do you see yourself in five years?
Nastya: These days, we only plan about a year ahead. The world is too unstable for anything else. For now, we are happy in Spain. The biggest lesson we've learned over the last few years is how to live "in the here and now." Maybe one day conditions will allow us to return to Ukraine and we’ll consider it, but for now, home is wherever we are.
Summary: what's worth remembering
- Renting in Poland requires not only money but also language skills and stress resistance.
- Bulgaria is a great "budget" option with a friendly climate and attitude, but summer heat can be tough.
- Northern Spain is ideal for those who don't like heat but want to live near the water.
- Legalization through the Digital Nomad Visa is a long process that requires careful preparation and legal assistance.
If you are interested in more details about the cost of living in London, I also recommend reading my article about cost of living in a big city, to better plan your budget.